I have finally put some thoughts about my trip down - hooray!!!
The long and the short of it? South Africa was amazing. Arrived after a particularly mind-numbing flight (but how brilliant are the entertainment systems on Virgin Atlantic???) and was wizzed straight to Mum’s cottage, where we relaxed for a bit and caught up until it was time to book into our hotel – a rather plain affair about 15 minutes drive from my Mum’s. Got in the driving seat for the first time in about 6 years and was surprised at how good it felt. Seems that driving is a bit like riding a bike – once you learn, you never forget…
Next day we had a full day in Johannesburg and I wanted to show Carl Sandton City – a HUGE shopping centre in the posh part of town that I pretty much grew up in – my Mum would leave me there all day during school holidays and we would spend the day ducking in and out of films, sometimes seeing four in a day – perhaps this is where my obsession with cinema began. Sandton City had changed a lot in the 6 years that I was away (as had everything – I constantly felt like a stranger in my own town in Johannesburg – a very odd feeling) and seemed to be a boutique shopping centre for the extremely rich. Boring really. Had lunch in Sandton Square where there is the most hideous sculpture of Nelson Mandela and then back to Mum’s for prawn dinner – yumbo!
Next morning Carl and I left early to drive east to Mpumalanga and to Malelane, where we were staying to be near to the Kruger National Park. Drive was great – fantastic to be on the open road and great to be driving again. We stayed in a fantastic place about 2 kms from the park gates and decided to leave the park to the next day. The following morning we were up early and we were in the park by 6am spotting animals. Saw pretty much everything, even a rather pissed off bull elephant who decided to mock-charge the car. After 7.5 hours driving around, we had pretty much had enough and retired to the guest cottages for a swim in the lovely salt-water swimming pool. In 38 degree heat, it was a necessity! The next night had a fantastic meal at the Malelane Sun hotel – a fantastic place RIGHT on the Crocodile River. There is nothing quite like eating a fantastic meal while you hear the elephants and lions on the other side of the river – magic!
Back to JHB the next day and another night with my Mum and Sister. Next morning super early we were off again, this time driving to Natal and to Belito Bay, where Val (almost like my second Mum – I left home at 15 and moved in with her and her family – long story). Fantastic drive – as soon as you veer down onto the lowveld, the scenery changes and becomes dramatic and beautiful – I shed a tear or two, not realising how I had missed Africa…
Arrived 7 hours later into 40 degree heat with 90 percent humidity – it literally knocked you backwards. Val and PJ had a Braai (BBQ) that night and it was wonderful to catch up and tell stories about long ago. It is amazing that with some people you can pick up exactly where you left off, no matter how long it has been since you last saw them. Val is that type of person. I admire her spirit and her refusal to let the stresses and strains of life in SA get to her - an amazing woman. Swam in the sea the next day – I was as happy as can be. I have always had a strong affinity with the sea and there is nothing quite like the sea in Natal – warm, rough and unforgiving. Carl flew his kites whilst swimming and drew quite a crowd as I watched – proud. Aaaah! That night was our last, so took Val and PJ to a restaurant on the sea – lovely meal with a waiter who could not have been more than 18 serving us wicked cocktails. Val got pissed and had to be lifted into the car whilst Carl and I giggled. A great night.
Day after that C and I were back in the car driving to Durban airport to get a flight to Port Elizabeth – something that was not in our original plans, but had been suggested by Johann. It made total sense in light with the amount of driving we both had to do in the coming days so flew and landed, picked up another hire car and we were on our final journey Cape Town-wards. First day we stopped in a number of places, the måçost dramatic being Storm’s River mouth which is a famous estuary and a stunning part of the world. Saw our first Dassies, a kind of rodenty type thing that I had been talking to Carl about at length. Then onto Knysna. We stayed at a gay guest house that was beautiful and very friendly, apart from a pair of over-amorous guests who seemed to think that two young boys from London were easy pickings. Not so! Ha ha!! Carl and I had a highlight meal at a restaurant on the Knysna heads and ate delicious fish whilst watching the sun go down and hearing the waves crash about 6 foot from us. One of our best meals and evenings!
Next morning bright and early we were off to Cape Town – about a 7 hour drive. It was a tough one with parts of the little Karoo and hours of flat, boring landscape. Finally we enterd Cape Town and saw the impressive shadow of Table Mountain and we both felt that we had reached civilisation.
I wont go into too much detail about Cape Town – needless to say, it is a magical, sublime city and one that everybody should visit. It has all the best of Africa and all the best of Europe and contains so much energy, spirit and enthusiasm, it is difficult to leave. Met up with some friends, relaxed on the beach, flew kites and ate in the best restaurants, it was the perfect end to a perfect holiday and we are both desperate to find ways to spend some more time there….
Needless to say, it has been difficult to return to London, but with so much still here for both of us, it seems silly to contemplate moving. One day perhaps, but for now both of us are here and will attempt to make the most of it whilst we are.
Pics from the trip can be seen at http://www.flickr.com/photos/barnaby/sets/72057594074762729/
